Amigurumi Pig free crochet pattern

Use this amigurumi pig free crochet pattern to crochet your own Amigurumi pig. I call him Mr.Piggie. 🙂 This amigurumi pig free crochet pattern also includes the pattern for the suspender shorts.  Make a bunch of them for your little one’s birthday party favours. You can make this using sport weight yarn and Mr.Piggie would make a bag charm too.

Similar patterns:

If you liked this Amigurumi pig free crochet pattern, check out my other free amigurumi patterns:

• Alpaca pattern
• Giraffe pattern
• Fish pattern
• Fox pattern

 

Yarn:

This amigurumi pig free crochet pattern uses worsted weight yarn and he is 13.5cm tall. You can make this amigurumi pig using dk weight or any yarn because the pattern isn’t really dependent on a specific gauge. 

Supplies:

• Small amount of Red Heart Comfort in Petal Pink
• Small amount of black yarn(Red Heart Super Saver in Black) for embroidering the eyes/Plastic safety eyes
• Bernat Premium yarn for the shorts in Botany Teal
• 4mm crochet hook
• Large eye tapestry needle and scissors
• Stuffing

Abbreviations:

• Ch – chain
• MC – Magic Circle
• Sl st – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• [Number] – Stitch count at the end of the round

Pattern Notes:

• This project is made with worsted weight yarn, however there is no gauge required, so you can use any yarn with a suitable hook.
• Sew the head to the body twice, this gives it more stability.
• A well stuff body and head, sickle stitching head to body help prevent the dreadful wobbly head.
• Spots on the body are made using duplicate stitches. 
• WARNING: Embroider the eyes if using it as a toy for babies. French knots work great. Plastic safely eyes can be a choking hazard.

Tips before you start:

• Amigurumi always looks better when the stitches are tighter because it prevents the stuffing from poking out. Use 1 size smaller hook than your yarn calls for.
• The look of the Amigurumi finished object depends a lot on how you stuff it, so don’t be impatient and stuff too much in one go. Do it in bits.
• Always pin the body parts together before you start sewing because this helps in keeping them in the right place and visualize before sewing. Be it the limbs or the eyes, mouth, ears, antlers, horns, wings etc. Doesn’t matter even if they are really small parts, pinning them helps. I say this from personal experience as they always turn out better looking when you do this. 🙂

Pattern:

Legs (Make 2)

MC
R1: 6sc into the circle
R2: *(1sc in the next stitch, 2sc in next stitch); rep from * 3 times [9]
R3-5: 1sc in each stitch round [9]
Don’t cut yarn after making the second leg.
Working in rounds around both legs:
R6: Ch2, join the other leg using 1 sc (mark this stitch, this is the new beginning of our round), 8sc around leg we just joined, 1 sc into next 2 chains, 1sc in the next 9 stitches around the leg , 1 sc in the next 2 chains. [22]

Head:

Ears: Make 2

Nose:

Ch4

R1: (1sc,ch1,1sc)in second ch from hook, 1sc in next chain, (1sc,ch1,1sc)in last ch, continuing in the round on the other side (1sc,ch1,1sc)in same ch , 1sc in next ch, (1sc,ch1,1sc)in next ch. Fasten off with a long tail to sew.

I was planning on a different colour nose initially, but changed my mind 🙂

Eyes:

Use Safety eyes just to get an idea where you should place the nose and how the final piggie would look, then remove them and use French knots for the eyes.

Tail:

Ch6
R1: 3sc in 2nd chain from the hook and each ch until the end.
Fasten off with a long tail to sew.

Suspender Shorts:

I have used worsted weight yarn and 4mm crochet hook for these. The number of foundation chains for this may vary based on your yarn thickness and crochet tension, I’d recommend placing the foundation chains around the pig’s tummy first and counting how many you need and try keeping it an odd number, then you can adjust the below pattern to it.

R1-3: Ch2, 29hdc in each stitch around, slip st to the top of ch2. [30]
Count 8 and 23 stitches from the beginning of the round and mark the them. We will be splitting the two parts for the shorts on either side of these stitches. We will first work on the right side of these stitches.
R4: Ch2, 6hdc in the next 6 stitches, next join to the 24th stitch using a slip stitch and and continue working in the round, 1hdc in the next 7 stitches, join with sl st to the top ch2.

R5: Ch2, 13hdc in each stitch around, slip st to the top of ch2. [14]
R6: Sl st in each stitch around.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.

We will now be making the other leg of the shorts, so join yarn to the 9th stitch on the left side of the marked stitches.

R7-8: Ch2, 13hdc in each stitch around, slip st to the top of ch2. [14]
R9: Sl st in each stitch around.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.

There will be a small gap between the two legs, sew that part using a tapestry needle.

Happy crocheting!
Ranjitha